What are the effects of the socially constructed idea of beauty in a Western society?
Laura Dove
Visual Communication, Year 2
Across cultures worldwide, beauty plays a prominent role in society. The ‘imagination of a world beyond appearances’ (Levi Strauss, 2003, p114) is almost certainly inexistent. In the U.K. “4 billion pounds is spent on salon treatment every year” (BBC3, The business of beauty, 14/11/11), which proves our self importance and need to change our natural body state. Most people undergo a daily routine in order to present themselves in a manner deemed suitable for the public eye, even if this only involves hair brushing – the ‘ritual’ is still in place.
(Fig.1) illustrates the bizarreness of the beauty ritual. A social pressure is created in society and whilst socialisation occurs, self regulation takes place as we conform to these man-made rules. ‘The truth is, beauty adorns everything…beauty can be “made up,”’ (Levi Strauss, 2003, p113). It is learnt that to be successful, is to have a socially suitable appearance. ‘During the past five years…thirty-three thousand American women told researchers that they would rather lose ten to fifteen pounds than achieve any other goal.’ (Wolf, 1991, p10) So although some may agree with (fig. 1), it’s likely that they still shave their legs or ‘mutilate’ their body, which illustrates the created social pressure. Obviously not all mutilation is conformity. Some mutilate to purposely differ from the world around them, yet this wouldn’t be defined as ‘beauty’ in society.
The media holds a great authority over Western society and is an enormous control mechanism to the socially constructed idea of beauty. ‘In the cities in which we live, all of us see hundreds of publicity images every day of our lives. No other kind of image confronts us so frequently.’ (Berger, 1972, p129) This illustrates the power that the media possesses and although some influences derive from peers and family, the constant bombardment of images in society can easily communicate that people will be judged on how they look. ‘We are now so accustomed to being addressed by these images that we scarcely notice their total impact.’ (Berger, 1972, p130) We are constantly reminded visually to maintain ourselves and be beautiful. The ‘choices’ we make are slightly subconscious and the beauty ideal is usually blindly followed without question. This power produces a constant awareness of being watched and creates paranoia, meaning the individual becomes an object, rather than a person. This dehumanisation and comparison to the other is a form of ‘Panopticism’ – a term developed by Foucault.
‘Panopticism’ derived from an original building called the Panopticon. The Panopticon design was seen as the ideal institution. The circular building is mainly used in the context of a prison; the cells around the outside – brightly lit, with a control station in the centre, which cannot be seen from the cells. Similarly to the beauty world, in the Panopticon people can be recorded and measured against each other, you are always scrutinised. “…Hence the major effect of the panopticon: to induce in the inmates state of conscious and permanent visibility…” – Foucault. The socially constructed idea of beauty enables us to become ‘docile bodies’, which is created by Panopticism and the modern society surrounding us.
It is predominantly women who fall into the trap of beauty, although men (fig.2) are also affected by these socially constructed roles as the image illustrates. In other cultures around the world, there is proof to justify that beauty isn’t genetically a female hang-up, ‘Among the Nigerian Wodaabes, the women hold economic power and the tribe is obsessed with male beauty; Wodaabe men spend hours together in elaborate makeup sessions, and compete…in beauty contests judged by women.’ (Wolf, 1991, p13) This demonstrates beauty’s social construction and how easily inflicted people can be by the culture surrounding them. ‘From earliest childhood she has been taught and persuaded to survey herself continually.’ (Berger, 1972, p46) The images and advertisements seen on a daily basis continually reaffirm what it means to be a beautiful man or woman. However, it is predominantly men that produced visual culture before the 1960’s. It was produced by men and brought by men so the idea of what’s ‘beautiful’ was determined by the men who created the visual culture. ‘…the essential way of seeing women…has not changed. Women are depicted in a quite different way from men – not because the feminine is different from the masculine – but because the ‘ideal’ spectator is always assumed to be male and the image of the woman is designed to flatter him.’ (Berger, 1972, p64) Only recently have women been able to have an input; and with this input we have seen a gradual change. Therefore, it’s no surprise that people are willing to endure pain in the result of an ‘improved’ look and to meet society’s approval.
‘During the past decade…cosmetic surgery became the fastest growing medical speciality.’ (Wolf, 1991, p10) So rather than the slight mutilation of shaving (fig.1) people are now willing to heavily disfigure their natural state in order to live up to this idea of ‘beauty’. (Fig.2) is an example of society’s pressures on the individual. ‘People worldwide experience pressure to conform to specific, often commercially created, ideals of beauty. Christopher, 22, (fig.2) examines his chest after a waxing treatment to remove hair, in a New York beauty salon.’ (Lundelin, 2010, p74) Whilst some inflict intentional harm to modify their body, others can be unintentional as discovered on BBC3’s ‘The business of beauty’. Some of the people featured on the programme desired to be beautiful so desperately that they were willing to endure extensive physical pain and risk to health in some cases. For example, one woman on the show was highly allergic to hair dye and nearly died after use. She explained after the incident how she still wanted to use the product, saying, “Atleast I’ll die with nice hair.” This illustrates the strive for beauty over pain.
Airbrushing is another aspect that affects how we view beauty and is a result of advertising. Product companies need to impose self-loathing onto people in order to keep their products selling. ‘…Beauty becomes competitive.’ (Berger, 1972, p52). Airbrushing keeps the social construction of beauty alive. Images are fed into society which are, in effect, false and made-up. ‘Dalma Heyn, editor of two women’s magazines, confirms that airbrushing age from women’s faces is routine. She observes that women’s magazines “ignore older women or pretend they don’t exist: magazines try to avoid photographs of older women,”’ (Wolf, 1991, p82). The exception for this is older celebrities – who have normally been airbrushed to that of a porcelain doll. This not only shuns a certain group, it rejects the natural ageing process that everyone goes through. Hair dyes are marketed to hide greys and wrinkle creams are repetitively sold that have no long term effect – some begin to feel ashamed of their age. People don’t aspire to age.
‘Glamour cannot exist without personal social envy being a common and widespread emotion.’ (Berger, 1972, p148) The advertisers battle to have the slimmest model with the biggest breasts/largest muscles and most flawless skin. They compete until they have no other option than to create a fake person, who reflects no one in society, yet is still desirable whilst being impossible to achieve. (Fig.3) signifies how far this ‘fake’ beauty has gone. The young female in the image is entirely computer generated; she does not represent a real woman. She was entered into the ‘Digital Miss World’ contest where she could be judged against other fake women who are composed by a combination of codes. These ‘coded women’ are made predominantly for men. When a man finds virtual beauty attractive, the pressure of beauty for women rises as they are rated next to lifeless models. When frequently harassed with artificial images it’s unsurprising that the standard of beauty in Western culture has narrowed. An example that illustrates this new ‘digital beauty’ is H&M’s online clothing range, ‘The Swedish retailer admitted that they had been using only the head of real models on their website and the rest of their bodies were computer generated.’ (http://uk.lifestyle.yahoo.com/photos/). The message that H&M are communicating to the public is that the real body doesn’t measure up to the falsely created standard for selling clothes. When walking into any high street shop, the first noticeable feature is the sleek, over exaggerated, long legged models which the clothes hang off of. This is false advertising at its best.
‘The characters…make such exaggerated femininity seem aspirational, and the celebrities they read about in fashion and gossip magazines are often women who are well known to have such chosen extreme regimes, from punishing diets to plastic surgery, to achieve an airbrushed perfection.’ (Walker, 2010, p2) The idea of beauty in a Western culture is to never be satisfied with appearance. A person influenced by beauty is always striving to achieve. Air brushed models and the bombardment of ‘fake’ images lead us to unhappiness. ‘The weight of fashion models plummeted to 23 percent below that of ordinary women, eating disorders rose exponentially, and a mass neurosis was promoted that used food and weight to strip women of that sense of control.’ (Wolf, 1991, p11) With these underweight role models and ideas of beauty persistently in Western culture, combined with the lack of diversity, the feeling of worthlessness and constant striving to achieve the beauty ideal takes over. ‘The sexual revolution promoted the discovery of female sexuality…which for the first time in women’s history artificially links a commodified “beauty” directly and explicitly to sexuality-’ (Wolf, 1991, p11)
‘Capitalism survives by forcing the majority, whom it exploits, to define their own interests as narrowly as possible…it is being achieved by imposing a false standard of what is and what is not desirable’ (Berger, 1972, p154) Beauty is a myth and oppresses us. Self absorption and the need to be obsessed with appearances restrict interest in the significant issues of society. Theorist Theodor Adorno claims that we live in a standardised culture where we are constantly presented with false needs. Beauty effects peoples true needs, contentment and free will.
‘”Beauty’ is a currency system like the gold standard. Like any economy, it is determined by politics,’ (Wolf, 1991, p12). The effects of socially constructed beauty can be destructive. They lead to a world of selfishness and vanity where appearances matter before personality. In a society that judges people based on how they look; constant adjustment occurs to match fake and digitally enhanced models. Although there are significant differences for what it means to be a beautiful man or woman, both genders naturally conform. Advertisers and the surrounding society make distinct gender divisions meaning beauty can be a trap rather than a choice. Though some recognise the destructive elements of the constructed beauty, most still have hang-ups and conform to this invented, commercially driven notion.


















































